Later I spotted that fermented durian tempoyak just isn’t a matter of style, however slightly the results of long-term human logic within the face of pure abundance.
Why is durian, a fruit nicknamed “king”, costly and has a candy, candy style, really processed into bitter pulp with a pungent aroma?
As a lover of recent durian, tempoyak looks like a paradox. Why does one thing that already feels excellent need to be become one thing that requires the tongue to battle?
That skeptical view modified once I stopped seeing tempoyak as a matter of style, and began understanding it as a survival technique.
Durian Harvest Dilemma
The reply just isn’t a matter of style, however a matter of time, place and limitations.
To know tempoyak, we have to return a long time into the previous, imagining Sumatra when the harvest season arrives. Durian doesn’t fall one or two items, however hundreds of items concurrently.
At the moment, there have been no refrigerated logistics vans able to sending fruit to massive cities in a single day. There isn’t a on the spot freezing expertise but. Durian is a spoiled fruit. If left open for a number of days, the flesh will crack, catch a chilly, after which rot.
Pure abundance really turns right into a menace. 1000’s of durians are liable to ending up as natural waste. It was at this level that our ancestors started to suppose with sharp logic. They refuse to let the produce of the land go to waste. They want a method to “freeze time”, retailer durian energy and vitamins to allow them to nonetheless be consumed throughout instances of famine.
The answer is easy however exact. Glass jar, ripe durian, and one key ingredient, specifically salt.
The Science Behind Glass Jars
To this point, I assumed that including salt to tempoyak was solely supposed to present it a salty style. It seems that assumption was unsuitable. Salt performs a really essential technical position in conventional biotechnology.
Scientifically, durian fermentation tempoyak works by spontaneous lactic fermentation course of which converts sugar into lactic acid.
On this course of, salt capabilities to regulate water exercise. Water exercise determines how freely water molecules can be found to microorganisms. If the water content material is just too excessive and never managed, the durian will turn into a pulp that’s too runny and turns into a really perfect medium for spoilage micro organism.
However the position of salt does not cease there. Salt additionally acts as a controller for the path of fermentation. If durian is fermented in a closed container with out salt, wild yeast will dominate and convert the sugar into alcohol. The consequence just isn’t tempoyak, however an intoxicating durian, much like palm wine.
Our ancestors understood these penalties. With the correct quantity of salt, they suppress the expansion of alcohol-producing yeast and truly facilitate lactic acid micro organism equivalent to Lactobacillus. These micro organism convert sugar into lactic acid.
Lactic acid is the important thing to preservation. An more and more acidic surroundings inhibits the expansion of spoilage microorganisms. Durian, which is nice and simply broken, is reworked right into a bitter, tasty paste and is secure for lengthy storage with out electrical energy.
If this course of had been carried out in a contemporary laboratory, we’d name it engineered fermentation. As a result of it’s carried out within the kitchen, we name it custom.
Ecosystem on a Plate
My admiration grew much more once I noticed how tempoyak was current on the eating desk. It’s virtually at all times mixed with river fish equivalent to patin, baung, or lais.
River fish have a particular earthy or muddy aroma. Alternatively, tempoyak brings sharp acidity and a powerful fermented aroma. When the 2 are introduced collectively in a pindang or brengkes dish, a stability of chemistry and style happens.
Lactic acid helps neutralize the earthy aroma of the fish, whereas the fish’s pure fats tempers the sharpness of the tempoyak into a fancy savory taste.
What occurs isn’t just a mixture of flavors, however a meals system that helps one another. Backyard produce is saved by fermentation, then mixed with river produce to create an entire dietary consumption.
Information Born of Necessity
Now, each time I take a look at the jar of yellow paste, I not see stale durian. I see a meals expertise that was born from the necessity and cautious studying of nature.
Lengthy earlier than the time period zero waste and meals safety has turn into a worldwide discourse, our ancestors have really practiced it. They perceive limitations, domesticate abundance, and put it aside with easy science rooted in expertise.
Tempoyak fermented durian reminds us that meals traditions are sometimes born from probably the most rational wants. Each can go hand in hand. Maybe, among the options for the way forward for meals is not going to at all times come from the newest expertise, however from previous data that we too typically take as a right as a result of it feels acquainted.
